From super low-slung trousers to skull scarves, extreme shoes to sharp tailoring, British designer Alexander McQueen, who was found dead on Thursday, was the darling of the fashion pack. But exactly what difference did he make?
Lauded in the style industry and among those who keep a close eye on emerging trends, Alexander McQueen's contribution to fashion could, nevertheless, be lost on many others. But many High Street favorites of the past two decades bear his influence. So how did McQueen shape the things we've worn?
LOW-SLUNG JEANS
The bumster... worn low - very low
Alexander McQueen was the man who made the builder's bum fashionable. His "bumsters", which appeared in 1996, spawned the trend in perilously low-rise, crevice-revealing jeans.
"The bumster for me is what defined McQueen," says Michael Oliveira-Salac, the director of Blow PR and a friend of McQueen's from his early days in the fashion industry. "For me it was the look that put him on the map because it was controversial."
"Those little bumsters were in his first shows. It was like 20 people in England were wearing them back then."
It was a look that spread and spread, although few dared go as low as McQueen's signature buttock-baring style. As hipster jeans became ubiquitous throughout the 1990s and 2000s, a new term, "muffin top", was coined to describe the resulting over-hang of hip flesh caused by low-riding waistbands.
Today the sight of muffin tops over jeans or a sneaky flash of bottom cleavage might not seem too shocking - unfashionable, perhaps, now women's waistbands have edged closer to the waist once more - but when McQueen first sent out his models in bumsters, it was a radical departure and attracted many column inches of comment and debate.
Mr Oliveira-Salac says the style achieved what McQueen set out to do. "It wasn't about it being frivolous, it was about being different."
SKULL PRINTS
Skulls on bags, scarves, dresses...
One enduring motif which McQueen transported from catwalk to the High Street was the skull. His trademark scarf bearing the design has become a celebrity must-have. Johnny Depp, Lindsay Lohan, Nicole Ritchie and Cameron Diaz are among the stars who have been snapped wearing it.
"It is a trademark heritage scarf which is being copied by the world and his wife," explains Faye Sawyer, a stylist and fashion editor of 125 magazine. "You can go into any High Street store and buy one," she adds.
The McQueen skull clutch bag is another sought-after accessory that has sparked many a counterfeit.
TAILORING
McQueen trained on Savile Row, then moved to theatre costumiers Angels
McQueen started as an apprentice on Savile Row - the spiritual home of bespoke British men's tailoring. It was grounding that helped earn him a reputation in the fashion world as an expert at creating an impeccably tailored look.
As Alexandra Shulman, the editor of British Vogue explains: "He was incredibly clever at cutting clothes."
In cutting his teeth at Anderson & Sheppard, and Gieves and Hawkes, McQueen learned the disciplines of shape and proportion in traditional tailoring. During this time he even made a suit for Prince Charles.
As Eilidh Macaskill, the editor of InStyle magazine explains, McQueen wasn't just about crazy looks on the catwalk.
"He also created beautiful, beautiful wearable clothes… the razor-sharp suit, the pencil skirts, the beautiful prints in the spring and summer collection."
Sawyer believes the way McQueen's clothes were tailored had an impact beyond the catwalk. "The cut is everything. It affected fashion and it filtered on to the High Street."
THEATRICAL CATWALK SHOWS
He had a taste for drama and shock
Birdcages, butterflies, feathered wings, towering heels and even a catwalk filled with water - McQueen is credited with bringing theatrical drama to the catwalk.
McQueen used new technology and innovation to add a twist to proceedings. In 2006 he projected a holographic 3D image of model Kate Moss on to the runway. He also experimented with streaming his catwalk shows live on the internet. Earlier shows featured a volcanic catwalk that erupted in flames, and a giant Plexiglass snowstorm.
He envisioned fashion and the different aspects of art at many different levels. "His shows were always ahead of their time, it was like a full-on production.
And his extravagant and colourful shows were always a hot ticket in the fashion world. "I've seen people fighting in the queues at his shows to get in," she says.
MOULD-BREAKING MODELS
Theatrical in every way
McQueen liked to shock and surprise people at his catwalk shows, and wasn't a designer who liked to conform to fashion industry norms.
In 1998 he caused controversy when double amputee Aimee Mullins, a former Paralympian, modelled on the catwalk wearing a pair of hand-carved wooden prosthetic legs.
"You always expected the unexpected with Alexander McQueen. Everyone was waiting to see who was on the catwalk, and what they were wearing.
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"Supermodels were never treated like royalty. He was one of the designers who didn't care about that social standing," he says. "When he worked with top models he loved to get them out of their comfort zone."
EXTREME SILHOUETTES
Making the beautiful ugly, or the ugly beautiful?
Some of McQueen's most memorable designs were outlandish, unconventional and plain bizarre.
"He didn't just create fashion, he created spectacles," says the fashion designer Scott Henshall.
For McQueen the creative palette extended further than just clothes, says Mr Oliveira-Salac.
"It wasn't just about the clothes - it was the whole look. The lipstick and the make-up was very prominent."
Some of his gothic inspired make-up creations had fashion editors divided. The heavy eyes, and clownishly defined lips were inspired by McQueen's theatrical side. He even collaborated with the cosmetics company MAC to devise make-up ranges.
"He was a creator. He wasn't just a fashion designer," says Helen Boyle. "He just upped the tempo in the way that he designed."
No mention of Alexander McQueen's influence would be complete without reference to the towering high-heeled footwear he was responsible for.
Pop star Lady Gaga managed to get through an entire music video wearing a pair of McQueen's Armadillo Shoes, which are 12cm high and resemble a lobster claw. And he was never one to simply make a hat when he could turn it into part snood, part gimp-mask, part taxidermy installation.
His silhouettes have been credited for adding a sense of fantasy, rebellion and edge to fashion.
